After a terrific couple of days in South Caicos, anticipating a couple of more days on Big Sand Cay as a staging area for our night crossing to Luperon, DR, we made the crossing into the Dominican Republic directly and without incident. We are currently safe and sound, at anchor, in a friendly small port town's bay outside of Luperon, DR.
But I'm ahead of myself. South Caicos was a full day's sail across the Caicos Banks from Providenciales (or Provo as most refer to it) and after reviewing several routing alternatives, we chose a route that stated clearly it was for a 7 ft. drafted vessel (how deep the bottom clearance would be on this course). We weren't worried as our boat only draws 3'8" but another boat we were traveling with had a 5'6" keel. So, being the prudent mariners we all are by now, we chose the deeper route to avoid any potential problems. This was also the most direct route to our destination. Once underway, we found that the depths were a bit less than charted, and we knew there would numerous coral heads sprouting up along the way to avoid, so we were on a serious lookout and continued cautiously across this very shallow bank.
Note: To best understand what I mean by a "bank", think of a very high mountain plateau which is submerged under a somewhat consistent depth of shallow water. Surrounding the bank is usually a very deep (up to 15,000 ft. deep!) body of water with corresponding deep water wave and surge action. These deep water conditions effect the banks somewhat but usually, the water state on the banks is more related to wind and tidal activity, rather than the deep water action.
We had a moderate wind chop and tides were not a big issue here so we made it across the bank successfully and without kissing any dangerous coral formations. We all noted that these heads would have made for some fabulous snorkeling, had we taken a break along the way. But, as is usual, we were under a time constraint while making this daytime passage. I say "usually" because, changes in weather and approaching darkness can cause serious problems to the passagemaker.
Our "flotilla" of 7 boats, most of whom we've been moving with since leaving Georgetown, arrived at South Caicos island within hours of each other. After anchoring near dark, everyone stayed on their own boats for a quieter time alone, being Valentine's Day. The next day we were delighted to find we had terrific internet connectivity from our boat and spend most of the day catching up on emails and SKYPING for as long as the connectivity stayed good. After Rick concluded his internet activities in the morning, and Suz took over to do hers, Rick took the dingy ashore to fill our 5 gallon gerry can with diesel several times, returning to the boat to add to the tank to make sure we were prepared to make the big crossing to the DR when the weather said we were ready. After about five trips, we felt we were more than safe with our fuel levels and our comfort level was satisfied as we were now ready to go, expecting the passage to be in a few more days when the weather seemed to be getting more settled.
That night, we all went ashore to see what the little village was about. One must remember that we are in a very remote part of these island and the town, despite having the best internet wifi connections since Warderick Wells, Exumas(!), are very poor communities with little industry, if any, beyond fishing. The town was about the size of a small American rural crossroads town, and consisted of a "grocery" store, a gas station, 4 bars (maybe more) a couple of miscellaneous stores with dirt streets and goats and chickens running around unattended. Our kind of place! Actually, a few of the main streets were paved, which seemed so odd in such a remote place.
So that night the "gang of 6" (two other couples we've enjoyed) and us, decided to go in and see what the nightlife was to offer in this little village. We made a "pub crawl" out of the night to the 4 bars we could find and ate fried chicken at the last one at about 9pm. After paying premium prices for beers in Provo, we were all pleased to find cheaper beverage pricing ($2.50/beer) and made a night of it. We met many nice locals, whom were extremely friendly to us, their children, their uncles and aunts, etc. Much like meeting old friends and making new ones all at once. We even got a ride in the back on a pick up from one bar to another (only a few blocks away!) at one point, and generally felt a part of the Friday night's local scene. We all returned to our respective boats and were tucked in around 11pm that night, none of us feeling much pain. :)
The morning "ritual" among boaters with SSB radios at least, is to get up in time for the early morning weather broadcast at 6:30, then make any decisions about moving on based upon individual (sometimes collective) interpretations about the weather report. There is a fellow named Chris Parker who runs a weather reporting business for the Caribbean region, who does these reports daily (except Sundays). With a paid "subscription" of a couple of hundred dollars a year, one has the ability to hail him on the broadcast frequency to ask specific questions about a desired passage plan or a certain weather window likelihood for an upcoming trip. We aren't sponsors, but a few of our traveling partners are, so when they call in, we get the benefit of their advice. If we were to continue forward alone, I think for the $200, we would likely join to use this personalized portion of his service. But as for now, we get the benefits without the expense.
The morning following the pub crawl, after listening to the weather report, we all discovered that the window for the next leg had suddenly opened and an option for moving earlier now existed. The general rule of thumb is, once a window opens, take it, as another might not be available for a while. So, after a short discussion was completed at around 8:30am, we all decided that we should make ready to get on the road. We all needed to go ashore again to check out of the country before we could leave. This is a practice like leaving any country, one must go through customs and get approval to leave. Being a Sunday, we expected to have to pay "overtime charges" (usually an additional $10-20) to get the paperwork done. This is a practice which many countries use to bolster their income from tourists. So in we captains went, papers in hand, to seek out the customs official. We had to call his house and have him meet us at the grocery store to do the paperwork. Having left the ladies aboard while we went to do the customs thing, much prep was complete before we returned.When we returned, and were all back aboard our boats, we made the final preparations to depart ASAP. Evidently the customs man, officially dressed in blue jeans, t-shirt, and an American logo ball cap, took pity on us revelers and no overtime was charged. Within 30 minutes, all of us had raised anchors and were underway for the proposed trip to Big Sand Cay, where it was proposed to lay up for a couple of days until a better window was supposed to appear when we could make off for Luperon.
Knowing that the trip to Luperon necessitated an overnight passage, our intention was to lay up at Great Sand for a couple of days so we would be ready to depart, when ready, for the long passage to Luperon for an early morning arrival. It is advised that one must arrive into the harbor at dawn to avoid problems with what is called the "lee effect" of this big island. The lee is the side of the shoreline opposite the wind direction. Simply stated, strong winds come across the island after the sun comes up, come across the tall mountains, then drop down to the seashore, where they cause difficult sea conditions during the day as you try to enter the harbor area, making it very dangerous at worst and very uncomfortable at best.
Once underway fro Great Sand (5-6 hours away), we were contacted by another of our group whom had departed the day before. He reported that the anchorage on Great Sand was very rolly and not good for laying up due to current sea conditions. Now it was time to make a new game plan, unless we wanted to "enjoy" uncomfortable anchorage conditions for potentially up to a week. Since the weather for the continuing leg to Luperon was acceptable but not great, it was decided to shove on and continue through the night to our first destination in the Dominican Republic.
After a rather "celebrated" evening the night before, none of us merry makers were too excited about this leg's extension (an additional 16 or so hours), but we all knew that you need to go when you can, so off we went. The wind conditions were terrific for a good sail day so up the canvas went and we all fly across as the miles clicked away. Motors off, the feeling and sounds of the wind in the sails, and the water rushing by is something one must personally experience rather than read of. I will simply say that the day's sail was certainly one of the highlights of our trip so far. We all made as many miles as we could not knowing when and if the weather would change along the way. There were 6 monohulled sailboats and us in our catamaran in the flotilla.
Once the decision to push on for Luperon was made, about halfway to Great Sand, three of the boats, the earlier mentioned "gang of 6" decided to begin a shorter, more direct route to Luperon, while the other four monohulls made on to Big Sand Cay to then tack south expecting a stronger following wind which would give them more speed on that leg. Informally, and not stated, the race was on! We 6 had decided that we could make better overall time with a shorter distance than they could with their better downwind speed at a longer distance. Since we all remained within 10 miles of each other radio contact was good and frequent connections were made along the way.
As we traveled that day, sails flying, we saw many humpback whales whom seemed to want to come near our boats to check us out. It was thrilling to see their huge bodies surface nearby (within 100 yards at times!) then slide back below the water's surface. We made approximately 40 to 50 sightings, including one whom I was concerned would ram into the side as he approached on a rather direct collision course. But just before he would have hit us, he dove below and reappeared on the opposite side as if he were saying "HA! I fooled you!". We all sailed throughout the day between 7 and 8 knots speed, then, once the sun started to set, each boat doused whatever sails they wanted to put down before continuing on through the night. Some were more comfortable leaving all up, others, like, us felt better getting the jib down and putting one reef into the main for a bit more stabilization in the 15-20 knot wind. The cat sailed effortlessly through the whole day and was the fastest boat in our group and made me feel pretty happy as we moved on toward our late night's journey.
We took shifts at the watch as the other partner napped, to return later for their shift at the helm. The overnight's are strenuous only in that they demand complete attention in less than ideal conditions. Darkness, rolling seas, continuous wind blowing on you, and lack of sleep all cause fatigue. We have learned to take our watches in longer stages as they seem to allow us to get mor quality sleep when allowed. Others prefer to take shorter watches with naps as possible. We both stayed awake until around 7pm, when Rick to his first sleep break. At 11pm and a few hours rest, he came up and was informed of the night's first encounter with a big cruise ship was underway. Off of our port bow, the lights from the cruise ship were clearly visible at about 5 miles. Some of the boats in our group have RADAR, others have none, some have something called AIS which gives more specific data (nearby vessel's name, type, speed, heading, etc), some don't, and some have all. We only have RADAR which allows us to "see" the approaching vessels on our screen but we have to do some manipulation to determine their direction and estimate their speed. It was nice to have accompanying vessels with the more sophisticated equipment along, voicing info for us all.
In this case, one of our group were able to hail the cruise ships helm and informed him of our flotilla and to watch out for 7 sailboats. Technically, sailboats would have the right away in these cases, but as in life, sometimes size does matter. Therefore we all try to keep out of their way without abandoning our set courses unless necessary. The cruise ship's captain was pretty arrogant and after telling us "not to worry" came dangerously close (within 1/4 mile) of one of our group. Our friend said he could actually see the scratches in the big ship's hull. Our friend, who is a very experienced sailor, had made course adjustments aplenty to avoid this ship, yet the big boat seemed to keep on coming toward the little guy. Not where one wishes to be. After a few tense moments in the darkness, all was resolved and no one was the worse, yet for a few moments or panic to relieve the boredom of this night's passage.
After this scene was resolved, Suz slipped downstairs to get some shuteye. Rick took the helm from about 11:30pm until about 4 when Suz came back up to take over. During Rick's watch, a freighter had come into our area and was not responsive to our efforts to contact him, making us do some collective calculations regarding his direction and speed to make sure we were all out of danger zone. Other than that, the passage went uneventful, save for a few small squalls following us, with one above us for about an hour. No serious wind attached, so we enjoyed a good old fashioned rainstorm to wash some of the salt from the day's sail from the boat.We stayed up together for about an hour when Rick napped for about an hour until the sun started to peek up over the watery horizon. Within another hour we could see the land mass of the DR and were delighted that we had made the journey, on schedule and would be entering the harbor safely on time. Once inside the harbor, we found a snug spot to drop the hook and fell exhausted into bed for a couple hours of well-deserved shut eye. To awaken and begin the checking in process.
Entering a new country, unlike coming into the US, one must go through Customs, Immigration, an Agricultural check-in where they inspect your food and trash to make sure you are not bringing disease into the country, meet the fully decked out in military garb (including medals) Commandante or official Navy Captain who kind of acts like the Chief of Police. Each step requires a few dollars and some paperwork and a lot of patience as they all speak very broken English. We have had to re acquaint ourselves with the Spanish language again. We feel like we've lost much of the little Spanish we used to have.
After completing these duties, we went into the town of Luperon, which is very third world like in looks but the most friendly place we've been so far. There were the typical farm animals loose in the streets (ever have a goat come into a bar and check you out? Sounds like the beginning to a joke, doesn't it!). Being it was now beer-thirty, we stopped at a local's open air bar for a local beer. They make a very good quality beer, Presidente, here and they put them in 24 oz bottles. They are about 90 cents each so we think we're going to like this place. HA! Sitting on a stool looking out over the streets, we we soon met by our friends and a group of about 10 of us hung out for the rest of the evening, including a dinner at a more traditional eatery called Captain Steve's. Oh yes, the Commandante from the mornings meeting on the boat was also in this bar, now dressed in his civilian clothing, dancing the salsa with some of the local ladies. He made a great effort to come over to us and informally welcome us to his town of Luperon.
This morning we awoke after a bountiful night's rest, feeling refreshed and rarin' to go. We're about to go to town to check on flights home for the wedding and to do some internet both of which can be accomplished in this back woods community. It is an amazing world we live in, yes?
We will stay here, weather windows be damned, until we fly back to Colorado for the big celebration, then return to continue toward Puerto Rico and t5he Virgin Islands upon our return. Since this is a big cruiser's hangout, we feel very comfortable leaving our boat here under the watchful eyes of friends we've made along the way.