Getting Ready for Summer Storage

After spending over 6 weeks on the beautiful island of Antigua, we left yesterday for the 8 hour sail across to St. Kitts where we will be busy getting A2C ready for her summer landfall and hopefully safe destination for the upcoming hurricane season. Antigua has been and continues to be one of our favorite places in the entire Windward Antilles chain. It is English-speaking, with very pleasant welcoming locals, and various boater-related facilities where one can repair or get things repaired or replaced without much hassle. The prices are generally a bit higher than other islands but not so much that we feel “gouged”. As the saying goes: “you get what you pay for” and in Antigua, you get high-grade service and products not second level replacement alternatives. After arriving here with our friend Jeannie Berger in early March in a very blustery weather pattern, we endured more than our share of in climate weather (for the Caribbean, at least!). Bad weather here mostly means higher than expected winds and the occasional squally rainstorm. This pattern continued through most of our visit with our daughter Ellie and grandkids AJ and Liv, who arrived on the heals of Jeannie’s departure. We were able to find plenty to keep everyone happy (mostly, I think) even during the off weather days but we have regretted that for both visits we weren’t able to show off the usual glorious days and nights so common to this part of the world. I don’t think either of them really felt slighted, however, as both sets of guests we coming from the much cold climates of Colorado. The weather past weeks have been perfect. Daily clear skies with easy sailing winds and soft sleeping breezes each night. We took good advantage of this weather and spent much of the past few weeks exploring the further reaches of this terrific island paradise. Our intentions were to sail completely around the island doing what boaters refer to as “gunkholing”. That means, you take you boat into the islands many hidden coves and bays and see what lay within. We began by heading counterclockwise from Jolly Harbor (on the Western side). After settling in Falmouth Harbor for a few days and rekindling our love affair with that spot, we continued on around, revisiting English Harbor. It is always a pleasure to stay in such an historic place as English Harbor, although the anchor holding can be sometimes challenging. From English we continued to a new spot for us, Mamora Bay. It was a very quiet bay, which is home to the prestigious St. James Club Resort. Anchoring just off the resort’s shore felt like high rollers without having to pay the high price. We did spend a day wandering about their grounds and enjoying their beaches, however. From Mamora Bay, we continued around to Green Island in Nonsuch Bay. We had visited here years ago on our first trip to the islands and recalled how beautiful it was then and still remains. After checking the charts we discovered that leaving Nonsuch bay and continuing around the island in the counterclockwise way, we would need someone with “local knowledge” to lead us out through the heavily reefed inner harbor to open waters to continue our circumnavigation. Therefore, we decided to backtrack around the opposite direction and come back around the southern and western sides of the island to get to the northern shore.

Along the way back around, we stopped again at Falmouth for a few days, enjoying their beautiful sandy beaches and welcoming “village”. After a few days here we set out for a quick stop at Jolly Harbor, to pick up some supplies at the Budget Marine store for our upcoming summer layup. We needed to buy supplies for a new bottom paint job and they had the correct paint we sought. For anyone cringing at the price of paint for redecorating your home, STOP whining! The paint we needed for the bottom coatings for our boat came to $350USD/gallon (we need 4 gallons to do 2 coats) plus two gallons of primer which came to $125USD/gallon. The reason it is so expensive is that it special biocide paint formulated to help keep marine growth from attaching itself to the bottom (and the fact that it is for a BOAT!). YIKES! After leaving Jolly Harbor, we headed further up the west side to a new place for us called Deep Bay. It was very pretty and secluded and well protected from swells. This bay is just before the big harbor of St. John’s which is the country’s capital city. The next day, we passed St. John’s Harbor to starboard and kept on to the north end of the island to Jumby Bay on a small island called Long Island. It is a beautiful spot with VERY exclusive properties including the vacation home of Orphan Winfrey. We weren’t sure which home was hers but any of them appeared worthy of the billionairess. We stayed there only a night and, because of difficult reefs to pass through if we continued around, decided to return back counterclockwise from which we came. The trip “around” the island was well worth our time and backtracking, we felt. We discovered some new, fun, beautiful spots on Antigua where we know we will return for another visit. We actually almost got all the way around with the exception of the extreme northeastern corner. But we didn’t feel like we had missed something we needed to see up there. Once back in Falmouth, for our final days on Antigua, we spent our afternoons at our favorite beach, reading and swimming when the heat got to be too much. Then we decided it was time to get prepared to haul for the season and get our boat headed across to St. Kitts to make those final preparations. Once we made the arrangements to keep the boat on St. Kitts, we discovered that several days surrounding our arrival and departure dates are considered island holidays. We discovered years ago, that the islanders LOVE their holidays and take every opportunity to claim one as a day off from work. For example, Easter is on Sunday but most places will be taking Good Friday off as well. Additionally, many will close at one on (not as good-) Thursday. Then, of course, since you’ve enjoyed a good long four-day weekend for Easter, why not just add Monday on for good measure! This is considered “island time”.

We will haul the boat on Tuesday, April 3 but will arrive at the marina on Sunday to do the final boat prep of removing cushions and all other wind age (things that could go flying away in a storm) and generally getting the boat super clean inside. When the boatyard reopens on Tuesday, they will take some measurements of our hull and dig an appropriately sized hole into which they will lover the boat, keels first. It will then come to rest on used car tires and be strapped down to concrete blocks for additional protection. From there, we leave her, cross our fingers and head off for the summer. We will hopefully have our prep chores completed and get the final day (Wednesday) on St. Kitts where we hope to be able to enjoy Rick’s 71st birthday doing something fun ashore. We have rented a small AirBnB on the island from Sunday night until we fly out on Thursday and are looking forward to that experience. This will allow us to travel, via our rental car, back to the marina during the day and back at night. I will post an additional blog entry after the boat has been tied up and then continue with entries during our upcoming house sit trip to Panama as many have asked us to comment on what we find there. That means you’re not done hearing us blab on about our gypsy lifestyles. Hopefully some if it will inspire some of you to “throw off those dock lines and sail into the unknown” s we have enjoyed doing. Stay tuned…

It sure is QUIET!

It’s been about 10 days since our last guests left. Our youngest daughter Ellie and grand daughters AJ and Liv wore us out, so after a few days to rest up, we made plans to rest up some more. Our style of resting means getting the sails up and moving to someplace new. We headed south from Jolly Harbor, Antigua, toward Falmouth Harbor and anchored in a lovely close-in spot which afforded us the luxury of short dinghy rides to the marina ashore as well as settled waters for good sleeping conditions. We spend about 3 days there and enjoyed the quiet of the boat setting as well as the shore visits to resupply our pantry and beginning to plan for our storing the boat in about a month for the summer season on the hard. While lounging at Falmouth Harbor we decided to make the final arrangements for our summer hurricane storage location before heading off for some well deserved rest from our visitors.

Our insurance company through us a slight curveball when we advised them of our plan to return our boat to Puerto Rico for hurricane season. Because of the devastating hurricanes, Irma, Jose, and Maria last season, many of the insurers have rewritten their rules for where one can put a boat and still maintain their insurance coverage. We had survived all three hurricanes in PR without damage or claims and yet they insisted on our being hauled out and strapped down to the earth for this coming season. It seemed that the location of the storage yard was not the issue as much as our need to be out of the water. Since we didn’t wish to go the hurricane season without insurance, we found ourselves changing our plans at the proverbial eleventh hour. Searching for an alternate location for summer storage proved somewhat difficult as we discovered that many of the other cruising yacht were also finding their insurers rules similar and they had already made reservations at some of the more popular yards to place their boats. Since we were near the middle of the Caribbean chain of islands we began by soliciting estimates and availabilities for yards nearest our current location as well as competitive quotes from as far away as east coast PR, Trinidad, Grenada, and Aruba. Close by, we checked into St. Maarten, Antigua, and St. Kitts. Prices varied greatly from location to location and we found that Grenada, where we had kept our boat two time prior, was near the highest price on the list. They also we nearly booked up already by the time we checked in with them in February. After talking with St. Kitts Boatyard, we decided that it would be the chosen place to keep A2C for the coming months. There price was good, their location was nearby and the insurance company agreed that they would be acceptable as an insured location. So now that we have secured our location and have made plans to head to St. Kitts in time to prepare the boat for hauling out of the water, we decided to spend some time gunkholing Antigua’s beautiful bay-ridden coastline. From Falmouth harbor, we sailed east toward the Atlantic and stopped off at beautiful Mamora Bay, just east of English harbor. This bay is quiet and not often visited by cruising yachts so we felt we really had the harbor to ourselves. The bay is also home to the exclusive St. James Club Resort. This posh resort is one of the nicest we’ve seen in our Caribbean travels and, as imagined, we’ve been fortunate to have seen some really luxurious resort spots. Upon arrival, we decided to go ashore, since our (4- year old) cruising guide mentioned a small grocery where one could get nice produce and meats. We dinghied ashore only searching for a dinghy dock but found none. There was a larger dock for the resort’s cruise sightseeing boats, so we tied up to that and wandered ashore looking for the market. We soon realized that no one seemed to care that we were there, thinking we must be guest of the resort as sell as the other several hundred folks enjoying the lounge chairs and beautiful white sand beaches.

We located a nice spot on the beach and plopped down in a couple of chaise lounge chairs and relaxed for an hour or so, slightly napping, but mostly just enjoying the views and comfortable setting. Near noon, we decided that we would return to our boat for lunch, then return with our books and swimwear in case we decided to get into the water. That afternoon, we spent a most delightful several hours reading and relaxing on the beach. Suz looked up the resorts rates and found that the cheapest rooms started at just over $700 a night. We felt pretty satisfied that we had not spent a dime there, yet enjoyed ourselves as if we had been the high rollers who had booked their holiday there. Another benefit of the cruising life.

When we sailed into the bay earlier, we had noticed that we were coming in directly below the Antiguan estate owned by Eric Clapton, the famous rock/blues musician. Here we were, floating on the bay right below his house expecting him to come out of his giant house and wave to us but no luck.

We enjoyed that anchorage for another night before pulling anchor and sailing further around to the east to the gorgeous area known as Nonsuch Bay. We had visited here in 2008 with our sailing friends and were excited to return and see if it was still as lovely. After finding a suitable anchorage, we found the bay to be just a beautiful so we dropped the dinghy and took a quick drive around to have a look-see at the environs. The water inside the protective reef where we were anchored was kind of choppy by now so we had a pretty bumpy and wet tour. We found that it seemed a bit more windy than we liked so we decided that one day/night was enough for this spot. The next noon, we weighed anchor and set out to return back around the southern end of the island for our favorite anchoring spot in Falmouth Harbor. For the past 10 days or so, we’ve mostly been Admiral and Captain Slug but have felt refreshed and ready to take on the task of getting the boat over to St. Kitts and prepared for her time ashore for the next 7 months. We will likely stop on Nevis, St. Kitts sister island, on the way over to do some exploring but once we get to St. Kitts it will be all work securing everything in preparation for a hopefully quiet hurricane season. Lots to do before we head off to Panama for our 2 month sit there but we are getting anxious for that adventure as well.

And Then There Were Two (again)

Whew! It has been an eventful past few weeks! Since our good friend Jeannie left to return to Colorado, we have been entertaining our youngest daughter Ellie and her two delightful daughters, AJ (7) and Liv (4). We thoroughly enjoyed their visit albeit a brisk and busy time.

We had arranged to have our usual taxi driver take us to the airport to pick them up but somehow he got wires crossed and we were left to find another driver while waiting at the curb for the first guy. Not to worry, a friendly marina employee called his friend Rodwell, another taxi guy taking a day off, and he came to pick us up straightaway. We arrived at the airport with time to spare as it seemed to take forever to get everyone through customs and immigration. But before long, Ellie and our beautiful “grands” came bounding through the exit lobby, spied us, and ran straight into our arms with huge grins and hugs. A good start to the trip, for sure.

Ellie had hoped to show the kids some “not so American” scenes while visiting us on this trip and our drive back to the boatyard provided just that. We drove through small villages with less than idyllic schoolyards, neighborhoods that needed some paint and maintenance, and various roadside vendors selling all sorts of strange fruits and vegetables. The kids took it all in and perhaps appreciated their home living situations a bit more.

After arriving back at our boat for the first night, we experienced a rather rough first night, weather-wise. My previous blogs explained the crazy weather patterns Jeannie had experienced with us and they continued for the first few days of the girls visit. (Read most recent blog entry to see what happened their first night aboard!) Prior to their arrival, during Jeannie’s visit, we had arranged to have a local mechanic come to the boat to do some minor work. On the designated day, a very nice looking young man named Jage arrived to provide his mechanical skills and we welcomed him aboard. We quickly noticed his thick Scottish accent and commented about it. He grinned and told us he hadn’t lived in Scotland since he was 18 and that France was his home when not aboard his catamaran which was currently anchored near ours in the bay outside of Jolly Harbor marina. We found out that he was currently living on his boat while his wife and kids (girl 10 and boy 15) remained back in France for the school year. We learned that the boy was an upcoming young freestyle skier and explained that Steamboat Springs was a big hub for Olympic competitors. We hit it off nicely and enjoyed getting to know each other. We invited him over for several “happy hours” and he seemed to enjoy having company, especially with the girls, as I suspect he was missing his family some.

After he completed the necessary boat work and were chatting with him, telling him of the upcoming visit of our family, he offered up some of his kids’ lifejackets and floating toys for their use while aboard our boat. We were delighted as Ellie had worried about finding lifejackets that would fit properly and that she would be most happy not to have to pack two lifejackets in their luggage. He said he also had a two person kayak which we could borrow if we wished. We took him up on it and Ellie and the girls spend several times paddling around each harbor in the kayak, learning to synchronize their strokes to avoid banging their paddles together.

Since the girls had been working hard on their swimming skills prior to arrival, they were most anxious to display their progress. They spent many hours afloat off the back of the boat, playing on the floating toys and noodles, while splashing and displaying their newfound and rapidly increasing swimming skills. Little Liv seemed especially proud that she could paddle about in her tiny life vest, without anyone guiding her, allthewhile exclaiming “don’t hold on to me, I can do this by myself!” I am certain they easily doubled their swimming prowess while with us.

Since the weather and wind were so intense for the first few days, we decided to get a dock berth so they could all ease into the boat’s undulations and not get too green from it’s rolling about. That proved to be a good decision as the proximity to the marina and the local supermarket helped all get accustomed to the local food offerings. Since the girls are on a strict Gluten free/dairy free diet, we were concerned that there would not be adequate options for them while visiting. However, we found several gluten-free choices offered and with what Ellie had packed to bring with her, they seemed to be well fed and happy the entire trip.

After a few nights on the dock, the weather had let up some so we headed around the corner to English Harbor, the historic harbor which was once the home base for the famous Admiral Horacio “Hornblower” Nelson, famed pirate hunter. We did some historical sightseeing and hiked up to the fort one morning, but they especially loved the harbor and the adjacent beaches. On their first Sunday night in English Harbor, we all went up to Shirley Heights for the weekly steel pan BBQ and party. They seemed enthralled by the 20 piece steel drum orchestra and loved the views from the elevated location. After a big day of swimming, hiking and music, they were all too ready to head back to the boat for bedtime, as were we all.

We were able to take the kids into St. John’s, Antigua’s capital city, on the local bus and we think they enjoyed seeing the local people and sights along the way and the farmer’s market in the city with all of the strange looking fruits and vegetables that were offered.

When we sailed back from English Harbor up to Jolly Harbor, AJ wanted to “drive” so Rick had her sit in the helmseat and she was able to do the course corrections on the autopilot as he told her how any degrees to enter. He even taught her that she needed to respond “Aye, Captain” when she received a correction directive. Then, and only then, would she be allowed to push the buttons to make the course change. She found it to be great fun. She also learned that the sides of the boat were not referred to as “left” and “right” but starboard (right) and port (left). Lots to learn, but an eager and attentive student. Much of the rest of the time the girls seemed to really enjoy the beach time and all the swimming off the boat. AJ showed some real mastery of her snorkel gear and swim fins and Liv practiced paddling around without our assistance.

We invited Jage over for supper one night and he brought the adults a nice bottle of Chilean wine and a couple of storybooks from his kids’ boat library to read to the girls. He read them with such sincerity and with his beautiful Scottich accent that he quickly won the girls hearts, we’re sure.

The 10 days went by much too fast for everyone and we were all surprised when the end of the visit arrived. As the weather had begun to stiffen again, we decided to move inside the harbor entry to a mooring ball for the last day to allow them some sense of calm while preparing their departure packing. Then out of nowhere, Jage appeared in his dinghy with a bag of assorted foreign coins for the kids and a magnifying glass for the girls to examine their “pirate’s booty”. The coins were from places all over the world which he had kept in his change box as he traveled around the globe. They were delighted to have this wonderful surprise and after big hugs all around, he was gone and we were off to the taxi stand to meet up with Rodwell, our driver, for their trip back to the airport.

Overall, it was a terrific visit, albeit exhausting for us. We loved seeing the girls grow their sea skills in front of our eyes and having Ellie with us for some great quality adult time together.

That night, as we sat in the cockpit having our boat drinks, we spied Liv’s swimming vest hanging outside to dry and became a bit misty thinking about what fun it had all been. The good news is that there is always another time…